Noshi by Frances Langenberg & Margaret Lee
9TH AUGUST 2024 - ASU #439
Noshi is a unique formal Japanese decorative tradition believed to be a custom dating back to the twelfth century with designs that are typically depicted in a bundle tied together and with uneven ends.
In this stunning new project stitched by Frances Langenberg from Margaret Lee’s book The Art of Bead Embroidery Japanese-Style 2 the tradition of Noshi is brought to life in this spectacular and graceful design.
Noshi has been presented as a folded folio adorned with traditional Japanese motifs embroidered using a combination of beads and metal threads.
This piece has been created in collaboration between Margaret and one of her highly accomplished students, Frances Langenberg, who this week shares with us a little of the backstory in creating Noshi with Margaret:
‘Every project begins with a clean length of fabric on an embroidery frame, stitched in and stretched tight like a drum skin.’
‘I have been learning Japanese embroidery and bead embroidery from Margaret for a few years now, but that feeling of tense expectation is always the same. And this was the first time I would be designing a project in collaboration with Margaret, so I felt an added pressure for my ideas and craft to live up to expectation.
I came to her with the idea of covering a journal. Margaret knows I’ve always had a strong preference for geometric patterns and the strong, stylised Japanese designs.
The first step in Japanese projects is the element of the design that is ‘on top’.
Outlining the cord knot of the noshi in silver couching thread felt comfortable and familiar. Next, I began stitching over the couching with a new multi-coloured metal thread – something new to learn.’
‘Margaret then suggested bugle beads for the outlines of some of the ribbons to help bring them to the front of the design. I had only stitched bugle beads as random before, and I found it difficult at first to keep a smooth line. But I was surprised how quickly I covered the lines once I got the knack.
For the very front ribbon design element, Margaret and I discussed the different possibilities to fill this area, then she sent me a few different patterns of tatewaku (Steam Rising) for me to choose from.’
‘I went through many different combinations of beads, and I played around with the size of these designs – using a photocopier and cutting them out and placing them over the design – until I was satisfied.
Eventually I arrived at that feeling of placing the final beads on the project which is another moment I still feel as keenly as when I first began. Already I can’t wait to be faced with a taut new length of silk.’
More of Frances’s backstory and the specifics relating to the design elements incorporated in this piece can be found on pages 51 through 60 in The Art of Bead Embroidery Japanese-Style 2.
The finished folio measures 23cm x 32cm wide (9″ x 12 5⁄8″) and you can purchase a Ready-to-Stitch kit which includes all the materials to re-create your own Noshi exactly as it appears in the book or it would be equally spectacular worked as a framed piece.
Make Your Own Noshi
All the materials you need to re-create this project have been sourced for you in our Ready-to-Stitch kit, with the instructions available separately in the book The Art of Bead Embroidery Japanese-Style 2.